The jewellery industry has long had a love/hate relationship with so-called “alternative metals.” Some stores sell them very well, while others will not even consider them. However, the modern man is seeking innovative ways to embrace tradition (a wedding band, for example) while keeping it contemporary and expressing something about their unique identity. Luxury is demanding alternatives, but not just any alternative will do. 

At the manufacturing level, some creators who use alternative materials produce rings that cannot be sized, are made from conflict materials, or are made out of material with little to no intrinsic value. Such examples are not a good fit for luxury today. The very word “alternative” can be defined as “a choice that differs from what is usual or expected, offering a different possibility or course of action.” Some people embrace the idea of newness, but others may find this is exactly why they do not want to stock jewellery made from alternative materials.

I view this through an entirely different lens. One of my product categories is non-traditional materials. I am lucky enough to have attended many bridal events and trunk shows at some fabulous retail jewellery stores and to have spoken with the end wearer of these rings. It is in our human DNA to want something different and unique, especially in this rapidly changing world. The customers who embrace alternative materials say that they love the idea of wearing something that other people will not or do not have. These are normal people, from all over, who want a modern ring made out of modern materials. This is not a fad. Modern metals are here to stay. So, here I will explore, with the aim of educating, the modern metals that retailers should be stocking to fill the demand.

Modern metals (or “alternative” if you must) are not only increasingly appealing, but some of them are also traditional, meaning that their use in luxury jewellery is not necessarily modern. For example, the Vikings commonly used bronze to create jewellery—gold was reserved for high-status individuals. Stainless steel was officially invented in 1913 but cut steel jewellery was being produced as far back as the 16th century and became quite popular in the 1800s to 1930s.

 Modern metal jewellery offers some key selling points that should not be overlooked, but there are also some facts to be very cautious about. Education is key. So, here is what your selling staff needs to know and understand about these new luxury materials.

Damascus steel

Damascus is a patterned metal that offers the benefit of a distinctive look. Originally used by Viking  swordsmiths, this material was typically reserved for blades and was quite legendary. Many examples of Viking pattern laminated blades exist in museums around the world. Syrian swordsmiths made their own version of this material. Reports from the infamous crusades speak of knights using these fearsome swords that were so sharp they could cut through a silk scarf as it fluttered to the ground. More modern applications of Damascus steel include use in making collectible, beautiful shotguns during the late 1800s to 1900s. Contemporary applications are beautiful knife blades for heat-treatable Damascus steel, and the use of a more modern material—a three-series stainless steel Damascus with patterns developed for jewellery use. This is comprised of the same series of stainless steel called “surgical grade” or “marine grade” that, when properly prepared, is hypoallergenic and cannot corrode.

Damascus steel in luxury jewellery lends a very distinctive esthetic. One attractive benefit is that every piece is one of a kind. We can recreate the patterns or designs, but the exact pattern on your piece of jewellery is yours alone. I call it the art of the snowflake or fingerprint. This is especially alluring for bridal customers. Many of my clients opt for both bride and groom Damascus steel wedding bands, often with 18K gold accents, with or without diamonds, as a way to correlate (they choose the same pattern or design) and yet retain individuality.

For bridal customers, it is important to note that well-made Damascus steel bands can be sized if needed over the lifespan. Be sure to ask your supplier in advance if their Damascus steel rings can be sized.

Rings made out of Damascus stainless steel are an artisanal product; however, due to little or no use of gold, they give the look of a substantial hand-crafted piece of jewellery for much lower costs than a traditional gold ring, especially at today’s ever-increasing gold prices. Additionally, Damascus steel is a modern metal that can be paired with platinum, gold, silver, or diamonds to create an even more enhanced look for the discerning consumer who desires something precious and uniquely theirs.

Damascus steel is also very durable, unlike rings made with plastic inlays, with crushed gems or wood, or other embedded materials. Those other alternative materials will not last as long as an all-metal ring, and they can be virtually impossible to size. Be aware that there are makers out there simply laser-engraving a pattern on cheap rings imported from wherever and falsely claiming that it is a true, handmade, patterned metal. This is a great look, but since it is a surface treatment only, it will not last.

Mokume gane

Mokume gane is another patterned metal, a blend of all precious metals that is made to look like wood grain. In fact, the term mokume gane translates to “wood eye metal” meaning that the laminated metal appears to the eye as wood grain. The demanding production process produces a lot of scrap material in creating these unique, one-of-a-kind patterns, so it still retains a luxury price, much greater than the sum of its parts.

Mokume gane was invented by Japanese swordsmiths in the late 1700s. The inventor, Denbei Shoami, was a maker of sword furniture for samurai swords, a master craftsperson. Over the years, it has evolved into a material for making luxury jewellery. Many metals can be used in mokume gane, but be aware that for rings, copper and copper-based alloys such as shibuichi and shakudo should always be avoided due to galvanic corrosion issues. Gold and silver, or gold and palladium, however, make beautiful wood-grained patterned material, and the metals are not cast, or mass produced. This is an artisanal, true master goldsmithing process. Several makers use all recycled metals for their mokume gane, and since this is a small-scale artisan product, these makers also have interesting stories you can use to excite your customer about owning their own, one-of-a-kind piece of art.

It is important to note that mokume gane rings can also be sized. Be sure to ask your supplier if they can size their rings.

Carbon fibre

Carbon fibre is made from the same element as a diamond—it is carbon, but in a very different format. It consists of thin, strong crystalline filaments of carbon, essentially carbon atoms bonded together in long chains. These fibres join together to create a strong and light source material that is used in aerospace, automobile manufacturing, and bicycle parts. It can also be used in the formation of fine jewellery. The fibres are used as threads (called tow) or can be used as fabric woven from the tow. Additionally, carbon fibre tow can be chopped and used as a filler material. While extremely strong, carbon fibre needs to be placed in a matrix to hold its shape, and this is usually some form of epoxy resin, which is cured. The dark colour, coupled with the unique sheen, creates a very luxurious look. It also has a cool vibe of high performance, given its use in spaceships, which appeals strongly to masculine consumers. It is also a very long-lasting material.

Given its strength and endurance, carbon fibre is being used a lot in the formation of gender neutral wedding bands, often with the addition of precious metal. Not all carbon fibre bands can be sized, though, so be sure to ask the manufacturer if the ring can be sized , especially when selling a wedding band which is meant to be worn for life.

Conclusion

Modern metals, such as those listed above, offer a distinctive style of great beauty and artistry, a real eye-catching look. Customers for these materials are everywhere, and these metals can help sales associates to engage their customers, especially the men, because of their beautiful and captivating stories, which can be shared at the counter.

Be sure to work with trusted, reputable suppliers of modern metal jewellery. Ask if the rings can be sized. Some manufacturers cannot service their products or size the actual ring a customer was married in. Instead, they offer to trade the ring for new or refurbished stock they have on hand. Personally, I am really attached to my wedding ring and would find this unacceptable, but at the end of the day, it all comes down to communication. If you know all the facts, you can educate your customer accordingly.

Know the materials. Understand which last and which do not, so that you can honestly discuss the pros and cons with your customers. Not all modern metals are equal. Some (like tungsten carbide) can be very difficult to remove in an emergency, for example. Also, some manufacturers offer conflict metals. It is fairly easy to do the research and look up metals online. Avoid the embarrassment of carrying a tantalum ring, for example, and then after the sale, your excited customer goes home and looks up the material and discovers it is a conflict metal. (True story—tantalum looks nice and dark, which is what some customers want, but it is a conflict metal. Transparency is key.)

Hopefully, the facts will allay any fears about these beautiful, modern alternatives for today’s jewellery customer, especially the men. Modern metals give them choices, especially when they are looking for something special and unique, durable, and long-lasting.

Chris Ploof, an award-winning jewellery designer and metalsmith, founded Chris Ploof Designs in 2004. A specialist in modern metals, Ploof is a renowned expert in Damascus steel and mokume gane. His hand-forged metal jewellery designs are crafted in his solar-powered studio in Massachusetts. Ploof’s work has led to consulting projects all over the world, as well as multiple awards from the Santa Fe Symposium for his research and discoveries. In addition, Ploof has received numerous mentions in global trade publications.