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To CAD or not to CAD?: Deciding when CAD is the right tool for a design

Matching bridal sets

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When not manufactured as a matching set, fitting a wedding band to an engagement ring can be time-intensive with CAD/CAM. Using a hand-carved mould can be a better option.

Fitted bridal sets tend to be the stuff of a CAD operator’s nightmares. A good CAD model is designed in interlocking parts, which allows the pieces to be polished separately and then assembled like a jigsaw puzzle. Interlocking parts keep the models straight when soldering. Even when dealing with a ring in a classic style, the end result may not be perfect when the mould for the original wax model was carved by hand. If you need a custom-made fitted band, CAD operators usually suggest getting the mould hand-carved. (Even though it can be done in CAD, setting up images and measuring the model are time-consuming.) People often opt not to pay for the extra time it would take to create the band in CAD when you consider a wax carver can simply heat up the engagement ring and press it against a piece of wax to get a perfect fit.

Organic-shape gemstones

My sister, Sharlane Letwin, was given an unmounted cameo as a gift from a very good friend. When she finally decided to have it set, she asked me to design a piece in CAD. The edges were thick in some areas and thin in others, so I had to decline. Instead, Sharlane went to a wax carver, who made a very simple bezel and charged her a reasonable price.

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