Men of steel: What’s defining men’s jewellery today?

By Chris Ploof
L-R: Simu Liu at the Golden Globe Awards 2024; Musician and songwriter Pharrell Williams walking the Chanel runway at the Métiers d’Art show in Paris. Adrian Brody at the 2025 Met Gala. GETTY IMAGES/COURTESY OF I SEE IDEAS

It’s an exciting time to be a maker of unisex, durable jewellery. No longer are men limiting themselves to wedding bands and watches. Self-purchasing of other styles of jewellery is on the rise. It’s exciting to see men embracing the luxury jewellery category for themselves and wearing cool pieces that express their personal style. Whether an everyday piece or special occasion wear, these are some trends we are seeing this year.

Bracelets

Bracelets are evolving into statement pieces, with men increasingly favouring designs that balance intricacy with everyday wearability. We have been selling more bracelets than ever, and our stainless steel Damascus cuffs, with and without leather inlays, reflect a growing interest in this type of men’s jewellery. Of special interest to me is that men seem to be gravitating towards wider—20 mm—cuffs with a heavy, substantial design. The added weight contributes to the tactile experience of wearing the piece, transferring the feeling of strength and power to the wearer.

Top: L-R: Hand-forged Damascus steel cuff bracelets appeal to men who appreciate the historical allure and charm of Damascus steel, dating back to the Viking era; Bi-metal link chain bracelets, inspired by bicycle chains, are increasingly popular with men today; Hand-forged Damascus steel cuff bracelet with Crocodile leather inlay. Bottom: L-R: Hand-forged Damascus steel cuff bracelets; Precious Damascus rings featuring hand-forged Damascus steel with 14K red gold, 18K yellow gold, or palladium, with and without diamonds. Photos courtesy of Chris Ploof Designs

Custom-designed link bracelets in Damascus steel, gold, and silver also highlight the appeal of thoughtful engineering in jewellery design. These are inspired by my love of cycling. Assembled with custom stainless steel shoulder screws, the links have fluid, beautiful movement. The clasp is designed for easy one-hand fastening and removal, while remaining secure during wear. Details like these demonstrate how functional design and precision craftsmanship can be just as important as esthetics. Men who love gadgets and well-made objects have enjoyed these bracelets as well.

Unusual materials

Innovative materials and historic metal alloys are expanding the range of options available in men’s jewellery. Men have embraced this use of unusual materials recently. For example, we’ve noticed a growing appreciation for carbon fibre paired with precious metals in rings and pendants.

Carbon fibre is light and strong. It has a silky black look which men love, plus the cachet of it being used in aerospace and Formula 1 race cars adds an element of engineering heritage that appeals to many wearers.

The most recent metal addition in our ring line has been exploding. Modern Electrum (ME) is a contemporary interpretation of ancient electrum, a metal prized by the Egyptians, Greeks, Romans, and other ancient cultures for use in jewellery and coins, plus topping their sculptural icons like obelisks and pyramids. Today’s ME is a proprietary blend of silver, gold, and palladium. It is more than 95 per cent precious metal, and it does not rust, tarnish, or corrode, making it very attractive to men with active lifestyles. Stronger than silver and far less expensive than gold, it is a modern metal with an ancient story that adds to its appeal.

Bling for him

Diamonds are also on the rise, with more men than ever before asking about adding little (and big!) pops of sparkle to their rings, particularly in the bridal category. We have seen strong interest in the highly fluorescent Gacho Kue diamonds from Diamonds de Canada that are in the ME rings, doubling the cool factor. Men enjoy showing off the natural fluorescence of their bling and telling the history and science that made the metal possible.

Expressive pendants and necklaces

Personal expression is driving increased interest in pendants and necklaces among male jewellery buyers. This growing interest in men’s self-purchase of pendants, such as chains, cords, and collar necklaces, shows that these styles are no longer solely for women. Styles ranging from religious symbols to pendants with personal meaning continue to resonate with wearers seeking jewellery that reflects their interests, values, or experiences.

L-R: Yanone pendant in hand-forged Damascus steel, 18K gold, and diamonds; Modern Electrum reliquary pendant; Palladium Tree of Life pendant with diamonds. Photos courtesy of Chris Ploof Designs

Japanese Yanone pendant necklaces, for example, draw inspiration from the history of the Samurai swordsmen, with each design intended to embody that warrior spirit. Distinctive dog tags are also gaining popularity, often featuring Damascus stainless steel with gold or leather inlays.

Driven in part by sports celebrities and other public figures, the growing acceptance of necklaces and pendants as part of men’s everyday style presents an opportunity for the fine jewellery industry. As men’s jewellery continues to evolve beyond traditional categories, retailers may benefit from introducing pendant necklaces as part of conversations about personal style and self-expression with male clients.

Brooches, pins, and cufflinks

Cufflinks have always been a strong category for gifts. Still, more recently, well-dressed men have increasingly been self-purchasing multiple pairs, particularly designs that are more playful or unconventional, such as space-age shapes or glow-in-the-dark smiley faces. Another notable trend—and one of my favourites—is the growing popularity of pins and brooches among men. Red carpets this spring featured numerous examples of men incorporating brooches into formal attire, reflecting a broader shift in men’s fashion.

Coleman Domingo at the Oscars 2025. GETTY IMAGES/COURTESY OF I SEE IDEAS

That trend has also influenced my own design approach, inspiring bigger pieces with more negative space and using materials such as diamonds and carbon fibre to create brooches that are both lightweight and comfortable to wear.

Younger generations of men are flocking to jewellery, with fewer preconceived ideas about which styles or materials are associated with, or assigned to, a particular gender. As Gen-Z and Millennial consumers continue to shape fashion trends, their approach to self-expression is influencing broader attitudes toward men’s jewellery. Personally, I have always designed for all wearers of jewellery, regardless of gender, and it has been encouraging—and exciting!—to see men exploring styles, beyond the traditional wedding band. Long may it continue.

Chris Ploof, an award-winning jewellery designer and metalsmith, founded Chris Ploof Designs in 2004. A specialist in modern metals, Ploof is a renowned expert in Damascus steel and mokume gane. His hand-forged metal jewellery designs are crafted in his solar-powered studio in Massachusetts. Ploof’s work has led to consulting projects all over the world, as well as multiple awards from the Santa Fe Symposium for his research and discoveries. In addition, Ploof has received numerous mentions in global trade publications.