This September, Christie’s will present a special retrospective exhibition tracing the creative legacy of French jeweller Jean Dinh Van, a designer whose bold and minimalist approach helped redefine contemporary jewellery. Running from September 3 to 13, the exhibition marks 60 years since Dinh Van founded his eponymous house, and will feature a curated selection of archival documents, signature pieces, and landmark designs. The showcase is curated by jewellery historian Vanessa Cron.

Jean Dinh Van (1927–2022) came of age as a designer in the late 1960s, at a time when art, fashion, and social change were deeply intertwined. Rejecting ornate tradition in favour of clean lines and sculptural forms, his pieces captured the spirit of a generation eager to break with convention. His work stood out not just for its aesthetics but for its cultural relevance, mirroring a growing desire for personal freedom and gender equality.

One of his early breakthroughs came in 1967 with the “Deux Perles” ring, a design inspired by Pierre Cardin’s futuristic fashion. Around the same time, his collaborations with avant-garde figures like Paco Rabanne and sculptor César helped cement his status within the creative vanguard of postwar Paris.

Dinh Van’s work also attracted international acclaim. His talent caught the attention of Cartier at the 1967 Montreal World’s Fair, leading to a decade-long stint overseeing the brand’s New York workshops. There, he introduced contemporary design sensibilities to a broader North American audience. By 1977, he had launched his own boutique on Madison Avenue, and his designs—often co-signed by Cartier—began appearing in museum collections.

The upcoming exhibition will coincide with the publication of Jewelry Sculptor, a monograph by Bérénice Geoffroy-Schneiter (Flammarion), as well as a new short film and the reissue of several of Dinh Van’s most iconic pieces—offering a multifaceted tribute to a designer whose radical simplicity helped shape the future of jewellery.